It began with a Carnivale and ended with a good cause, 2010 in perspective

2010 Saw a change in roles from just dressing which involved stepping up to the plate in managerial roles, crash courses in choreography, more show calling and back to my fashion roots of styling as stylist assistant for MYER Fashion Friday. Amongst the highs and lows of reaching 50 plus shows, sitting front row at several RAFW SS2010 -11 shows as an industry delegate. Winning the Ginger & Smart blog review competition.Seeing model Letitia Fitzpatrick OWN the RAFW showroom in her RAFW debut (de butt).Surviving a three day marathon of retail mall shows, mainly thanks to lunchtime lurks with the finest Finesse ladies and communal family KFC chips. Despite the long hours, waiting, pressure, repetitiveness, it's a part of why fashion people do what we do; the mix of emotions and talented people you get to work with time and time again to accomplish that all important production.

Location:It began with a Carnivale and ended with a Charity. 2010

The LMFF way is the most successful way

As I look forward to doing a fourth show pretty much back to back, I thought I'd take the time to reflect on what was a massive week. After working back of house at the Ruby Rose MYER show in Adelaide, I was given the opportunity to work as stylist and parade assistant for the MYER show featuring at the final monthly Fashion Friday at the Hilton. An intimate afternoon, much like a high tea but incorporating an up close and personal fashion parade with that special front row feeling.

There is so much to show production than just the styling. The lengthy process can made easier if the right organisational skills are practiced. Having both worked at different levels at LMFF, both as volunteers and the MYER stylist also involved in a senior role meant there was a mutual understanding of proffesionalsim and ways of working, from the numbering of parade outfits, layout of back of house and the marking of running sheet for the models.
One thing you have to be able to do is be able to hit the ground running, it could be having to solve a shoe edit when you discover there are not enough shoes in stock and you have to restyle and make the descison in the reserves store room or be swamped with a majority of the models coming all at once for fittings.
Managing your time, doing lists and pre organsing for the likes of retagging and bump in/out process is crucial for ensuring a parade runs smoothly. And in the end the less to worry about in those fifteen minutes of runway show time means you can concentrate on your individual role and your teams performance. It was definitely great to have a critical input into styling, choregraphy and work closely with an experienced stylist and show producer who works for a national client.

In the eye of the storm

Behind the walls of the runway, there is a whole other world people may never know. Amongst the frenzy of fittings, run-throughs and show preparation there is always the eye of the storm. A sense calmness of waiting and anticipation and often boredom.

It is here where I have always noticed a kind of social divide between model and dresser or back of house staff. Both here and abroad at the highest level. Sometimes it reminds me of the school yard where different groups, nerds, jocks or where I grew up, surfers and non surfers use to congregate in there separate camps. Maybe it's a good thing, to allow the two parties to get into their different mind sets to fully get the best out of their individual roles.

Though it all seems to work out in the end. The short lived working relationship between the model and dresser exists in the moments of first outfit calls and finale. And that is where it should end, even though there is no code of ethics, I know there is stuff that shouldn't be divulged, especially in my position as a privalaged male.

LOVE WANT buy it

I stumbled upon a really cool little magazine which content doesn't
consist of massive ads or irelavent articles. More of a photo journal of
cool shit and some really nice shoots with a style that reflects what the
in kids are wearing.

Real political policy that matters

There is a real need for local council to revitalise the central business district of Adelaide to attract a sense of city culture. One such councilor and candidate for Adelaide Mayor is Clr Francis Wong, who's forward thinking approach bought one of Australia's top designers, Bowie Wong, Bowie - Cashmere to Adelaide for an intimate gathering of socialites and fashion industry notaries. Which was proudly supported by Abache, Chandon, Mary Kyri, Soundpond.net, the gorgeous Pride Models & Richmond Hotel

Having only ever showcased some of his designs at Gerade McCabe Noir event the previous week. The collection he bought was sleek, modern cuts with standout garments worn by the likes of Lady Gaga and other celebrities.

Bowie was impressed with the city and his first impressions of our international standard airport and vibrant city culture having not visited Adelaide for sometime.

If Adelaide is to have a long term fashion retail trade that is constantly moving forwards in terms of been modern and on par with the likes of the eastern states then there needs to be positive and constructive input from council for not just overhaul of planning, zoning and reasonable council rates but cultural support for fashion events.

Below are the links for two of the candidates supporting a viable fashion retail revival.If you live in the city then have your say, at least this election the two candidates have a worth while policy, that is supporting Adelaide's fashion industry.


Francis Wong
http://twitter.com/franciswong5000

Stephen Yarwood
http://twitter.com/StephenYarwood
http://stephenyarwood.blogspot.com/

Thanks to Filip Odzak and Ida Taylor for organising such a great event.

Managing 101 reflection

Tomorrow I get to manage the dressers for one of the much anticipated fashion events in Adelaide the Gerade Mcabe Noir parade. From hand picking the team, well almost all of it, to delegating and understanding people's potential under stress is paramount to the job.

I'd like to think there is an industry standard of dressing and so there should be. In the eastern states at the like of L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion festival and Rosemount Australian fashion week procedures are routine and ultimately make the parade run smoother. However there are always tough zips and maybe a model or two dressing in the line.

My notes for briefing tomorrow look like this:

1. Check your running order, one, twice, thrice or till you know each garment inside out.



2. Unzip and undo only what needs to be done.



3. Stay at your rack at all times during the parade, unless you are behind and need to dress in the line



4. Know your models name or in this case names, Callers will call for your model not the dresser.



5. Dress your model first then help others. Delegation is key



6. Know which shoes match the outfit.



7. Check if there is a finale outfit different than the last outfit. ( a change back into a previous garment)



8. Missing and broken items must be reported immediately



9. Hang as you go if possible



10. Enjoy the short rush that is working back of house.

Surf's Up NET-A-PORTER ipad magazine App

I am totally jealous not to be able to make full advantage of the new NET - A - PORTER ipad magazine App. As a long time stylist though I can surely say that the quality of content in terms of information and high res images that jump off the pad, so to speak are amazing.

The interactivity is simple from a multimedia designers point of view, with some titles or statements appearing like a basic PowerPoint in a clever way. Even without the on line access to video, off line the app is a treat. From a page which has automatic scrolling, slide show of models in top 10 Clothes designers, my favourite is the inbuilt video content of a mini documentry on Halston, which plays inset in the magazine layout or full screen. It's also good to see that you are not bombarded by adverts, instead cleverly but sparingly used throughout.

For a first time ipad App it's near perfect, would love more inbuilt content that could be accessed without using the net, as well as been able to see some product prices and names like in the photo shoot. As well as ability to flip magazine in a vertical position, not just horizontally to see the amazing pictures. There is also a good mix of full and half page content to deliver visual interest.

On that note, it's an amazing app if you have an ipad and it paves the way for the future of online shopping and also magazine content for the fashion industry.

Saint Augustine Academy - I wanna do bad things with you

I wanna do bad things with you.

When you came in the air went out.

And every shadow filled up with doubt.

I don’t know who you think you are,

But before the night is through,

I wanna do bad things with you.

I’m the kind to sit up in his room.

Heart sick an’ eyes filled up with blue.

I don’t know what you’ve done to me,

But I know this much is true:

I wanna do bad things with you.

When you came in the air went out.

And all those shadows there filled up with doubt.

I don’t know who you think you are,

But before the night is through,

I wanna do bad things with you.

I wanna do real bad things with you.Ow, ooh.
I don’t know what you’ve done to me,

But I know this much is true:

I wanna do bad things with you.

I wanna do real bad things with you.

Michael Lo Sordo, Haunting Prints at RAFW 2010

Micheal Lo Sordo SS 10-11

haunting artistic prints

organic clouds

Swarovski Crystals

clean tailoring

delicate draping

Soft sensual fabrics

Highlight of the week for me, period. ront row (again) in the OPT for Michael Lo Sordo's SS 10-11collection show. Courtesy of Nel from Chasing Nel who with her change in sleek and sexy hairstyle was made to sit front row. Opening with flowing but still quite structured garments, including an amazing finely pleated long dress.

The pallete included neutral shades in nude, cream as well as soft pinks and sky blues.

Short sculptured dresses, sheer fabrics and hot draped mini skirts a favourite. The collection's prints a standout with the collaboration with artist Christopher Horder to produce melting cloud like formations in tonal pink and blue range. It was also very cool to go back stage and see the collection first hand, fresh off the runway, with Nel, whom buys from Micheal. Notable mention it was Micheal's Birthday too so having such a brilliant show would've been a treat.

Zimmermann, The Vanishing Point RTW S/S 2010-11

Zimmermann

The Vanishing Point RTW S/S 2010 -11

a graduation of shape and line

crisp

spirographs

linear lines

suggest rather than reveal

Lilacs, aqua, sherbert

With an amazing video intro of a endless tunnel lighting up set the tone of the parade. Zimmermann's The Vanishing point collection followed suite with many other designers as far as softness, femininity and florals but had a really strong emphasis on lines. Spirograph, linear and perspective points were a main feature in the prints. The simplistic geometric cutouts layered over swimsuits and light dresses was a perfect combination. A pallete of nude, lilac, aqua and sherbert created a mix of bold but playful statements.

Ginger and Smart THE TRANSCENDENT SS10 RAFW

GINGER & SMART

Breezy

Sheared

light bending inspired patterns

nude, mint, olive and oily blue

fluid

One of the highlights for Day #1 for me was attending the

first OPT show Ginger & Smart. A collection that progressed

from linear patterns, bold but not screaming, light fabrics.

Other techniques included Fraying, wrapped and knotting

to create a variety of innovative designs.

15 years of innovation

Last year I popped my Rosemount Australian Fashion Week Cherry. And it was sweet .Even though I went in the role of volunteer. It was good experience as well as training to see how efficiently Miro House and IMG run RAFW with a staggering number of shows.

The Overseas Passenger terminal (OPT)over looking the Sydney Opera house and circular key sets the backdrop once again of this years RAFW, which incidentally celebrates 15 years of innovation. So far only I have only heard of a few designers who will be showing including Ksubi, reported to be doing an off site showing, meaning away from the OPT. Others include, Kirrily Johnnston, Dion Lee - AS reported from RAFW website, Phos Phoro - info sourced from latest RUSSH mag and talking to a local boutique owner Saint Augustine Academy rumoured to be having their own show. Today I received my domestic delegate approval and am excited to be attending once again. It's always good to sit on both sides of the fence, there's a different type of anticipation and experience.

free socking

It seems summer is far from over. And one of the most interesting looks for guys over the Spring/Summer period is going sockelss.

I've noticed the trendier set, myself included is going sock less with my pants, preferably jeans rolled up. I first noticed this look last year when I picked up the Sartorialist's book. Most of the time with dresser styles of shoes too.

It is a very much a European feeling of sophistication but at the same time relaxed look that has made it's way down under to Australia.

Maybe it's our relaxed attitude or attention to breaking free from the norm.

A chilling preview of things to come

I once heard a quote with regards to when Anna Wintour was been interviewed, “some people think you’re an ice woman, in which she replied “I’ve heard it’s been cold this winter” I just wanted to open with that quote as I thought it would be quite fitting when talking about a recent parade I saw which left me very cold indeed.

Rundle mall hasn’t seen a decent parade since Rundle Mall Spring 2007, when I started out dressing back of house. The 2010 autumn winter parade seemed a world away from the calibre of event it once was.

The stylistic décor and fabulous sounds of Dj Alley Oop lured the audience into a false sense of security.

The only winter I got out of it was a down pouring of cheesy grins and body movements, especially ridiculous was the hand on the hip dancing like a stripper motion while trying to hold a pose. And the least you could’ve asked for was a decent hold at the end of the runway; you’d have to be a pro photographer to get a perfect shot. The model seemed to do her thing at the end of the runway but not wanting to commit.

There’s nothing wrong with creativity and flair in parade choreography, even though clean, consistent and simple is best. This was a hurricane of sorts it was like 101 choreography routines crammed into every section just for the sake of it.

For the everyday consumer it may have seemed entertaining but not memorable. Too much fan fare can distract from the real reason for the parade to showcase the garments and ultimately sell the clothes in a realistic way. As I sat there with a pursed lips I couldn’t help wondering where the industry had had taken a wrong turn, winter had truly arrived in Adelaide.

photography of parade sourced from Foster Hill PR facebook page 2010, logo sourced from Rundle mall Adelaide

ATTITUDE ABSOLUT ADELAIDE stealing beauty Autumn mag launch

aaa list

(just some of the peeps I saw or who I can remember seeing)

designers

Damian - Porcelain

Cate Pontefix

none the richer

retail pioneers

Sean - LAX

Adrian - Zero

Calibre

Urban gallerie

industry pros

Filip Odzak

Kelsey

Brigette & Tim Mitchell - Finnesse Models Aus

Em

Kasim

nicklawrence.com.au

Hetson

Bec Mclure

bloggers

http://www.dearselena.com/

http://nicholandbrooklyn.blogspot.com/

http://fashionisfueledbyobsession.blogspot.com/

http://www.privateaffairdiary.blogspot.com/

http://notsonaked.blogspot.com/

http://runwaycomms-fashion-industry-insights.blogspot.com/

cool kids

Sinead

Joey

Ruski

8bitkidz

Ryan O

Daniele Dantès

c-djs

Dangerous Dan

Def Starr

Ksubi/Bang Gang 12"

attitude

Charlotte Chambers

Holly Beer

http://www.attitudemagazine.com.au

If there was a magazine issue launch to be at it, was the Attitude Absolut Adelaide held in a no more suitable place than LIMBO.

Mixing more than cocktails where a bevy of local and international fashion identities. I found it much more than a magazine launch but a catch up with the all important people that make our industry what it is. Be it models, agency pros, designers, boutique owners, stylists, the cool kids that wear the clothes or like myself blogger, stylist turned fashion event guru.

It was truely a party that reflected what the magazine is about, attitude, collaboration, style and most of all fun. Special thanks to CC for the invite.

A Collection of Style - L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival

The L’Oréal Melbourne fashion festival has become one of Australia’s biggest and most sophisticated consumer fashion events. This year was no exception. Far away from the Central Pier Paris runway shows, The City of Stonnington hosts a series of runway shows that reflect the areas vibrant and stylish attitude towards fashion and culture. The area hosts the famous shopping precincts of Chapel and High streets.

To be involved in three very different shows is an amazing experience. Each show had their own individual style yet reflected the tradition of the Fashion Collection shows that is to generate excitement and interest in the local designers and boutiques.

Fashion collections 3 – Renegades
Tough edgy AW Collections from labels and boutiques the likes of Stevie, Choc City, Renegades, Vanguard and Rufus Green. A favorite of mine was Rufus Greens unique designs which never disappoint and always manages to turn heads.

LMFF official tv channel

http://www.lmff.com.au/index.php?nodeId=357

Fashion Collections 4 – Jeanswest
Breaking the ground rules in selling denim is a tough job, standing out in a seemingly flooded market place of jeans and jackets. Jeanswest showcased an edgy approach mixed with comforting knitwear and denim on denim. However not truely ground breaking it's collection was made stylishly wearable.

LMFF official TV channel

http://www.lmff.com.au/index.php?nodeId=369

Fashion Collections 5 – The Style Salon
This was my second year finishing off at Malvern town Hall and this year’s collection show cased a more grown up and sophisticated look.

LMFF official TV channel

http://www.lmff.com.au/index.php?nodeId=372


Next year if you want to step away and take a breather from the bigger runway shows or the hustle and bustle of the sidewalk, book a fashion collection show to experience what local suburban fashion is all about.

Not so youthful retail approach

TOP. ALPHA 60,

CENTER & BOTTOM, SAINT AUGUSTINE ACADEMY

all photos from 2THREADS.COM taken at RAFW SS09/10

This week looks like the end of an Adelaide fashion retail icon, Youthworks. After relaunching not that long ago it seems the once strong brand couldn't re enter the market place where it left off back in the noughties. Major competitors like globalize, LAX to name a few have seemed to have filled the gap it once left.

You have to question where Youthworks went wrong especially stocking outstanding brands like Alpha 60, Chronicles of Never and Saint Augustine Academy.

The main problem I saw, from both a consumer and stylists point of view was the overlapping of business, modern street wear attire & labels. This goes for stocking different price point labels and therefore quality. Having Ben Sherman next to Saint Augustine Academy is not going to cut it with today's discerning fashionista. The need for fresh advertsing and active use of social media is now all too important in the fashion stakes no matter how big or small a retailer you are.

Not trying to pigeon hole a consumer's habits but it seems there are several types of shoppers the boutique - Urban Gallerie, pop up store - SABA's and your Jack London or Cue or one stop shop like DJ's. When done right, especially the latter it can definitely work.

In conclusion, the once recognised retail brand Youthworks needed to reinvent it self for the new Adelaide market place, which it tried to but alas it was too late.

RIP Youthworks

A parade for every occasion

On reflecting on the last parade where I assisted Back of House, you only have to wonder can you have a runway show at any type of event? The annual Adelaide Carnivale is a celebration of all things Italia. The parade reflected the culture, racy at times, sexy and bold to say the least.

It seems that most events theses days, fashion orientated or not are trying to capitalise on the moment and trying to make it fashion relevant. Which I think is a good thing for the local industry, when done right.

The only downside to some of these associated parades is the cheapening of the industry with poorly or over the top styling and choreography, while entertaining just seems like a tacky show without commercial thought, which in the end is the main objective of the parade. To sell the clothes and accessories.

Even after the collections had been packed up and the models had left there was a still a crowd seated waiting for more shows. Successful, I'd say.

Hookers Video of the first parade.

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1326450288982&ref=mf

Photography by Belinda Leopold -Bleopold Photography, Models - Finesse Models Australia, Filip Odzak -Parade coordinator.

Does the face fit the Fashion?

To smile or not to smile? that is the question. With the L'oréal Melbourne Fashion's branding campaign well under way, the main message is that fashion should be fun, enjoyable and most of all portray a positive mood. It's not surprising the smile is back with all the talk of the GFC and economic doom and gloom.

Even though I'm all for a positive feeling on the runway, the real question is does this happy tone always fit the look and feel of the clothes or design? And god forbid if the model has a real cheesy smile.

In a show I called last year there were a number of designers looks that required a strong walk and therefore a strong look to go with bold empowering clothes, only some designers collections required a happy go lucky look.

Former Adelaide model Zoe Vink, who attended the LMFF casting call commented for the Sunday Age on their article on the topic and said there was an increase in shows where a smile was now required on the runway. (Kent 2010)

I'll leave it up to you whether you are more likely to crave an outfit even though the face doesn't fit the fashion.

http://www.theage.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/why-sourpuss-is-so-last-season-on-the-catwalk-20100206-njy0.html